Installation Guide for
Minerelle Kitchen Worktop

Product weight (40mm)

650mm x 4100mm - 83kg
650mm x 2050mm - 43kg
900mm x 2050mm - 58kg

Layout and Joint Placement

Having designed the kitchen layout and planned the location of all appliances, consideration must now be given to the worktops and the location of the joints.
Please remember that a key feature of Minerelle™ are the inconspicuous seams, so care needs to be taken in their preparation and fabrication.
The maximum supplied length of worktop is 4100mm; therefore in some cases straight butt joints will be needed in long worktop runs.
In some cases it may be possible to carry out the seaming process in your factory or workshop and transport the worktops completed to site. If this is possible then care should be taken in the handling of the tops around the seamed area.
All joints must be located with care and the following points must be followed: -
- Joints must not extend across hob and sink cut-outs.
- Offset all joints by at least 100mm from all cut-outs.
- No joints over dishwashers, offset by a minimum of 100mm to one side of the appliance space.
- Check location of corner units i.e. carousel units, as cut-outs in the top panel will have to be made to allow insertion of draw bolts.

Site Condition and Security

The installation site must be dry and secure i.e. window glass in place. Temperature at location of installation is important, as the rate of cure of the jointing adhesive is dependent on the temperature of the worktop, adhesive and general surroundings. The colder it is the longer the cure time.
Temperature should be at least 16 ° C or 60 o F and no greater than 26 ° C / 80 ° F as the adhesive would cure too rapidly to use.

Site Preparation and Checks

Ensure that all carcase units are installed, attached to the wall, plumbed and levelled in both directions. Check appliance spaces to ensure that wall worktop support battens are in place.
Unpack worktop components and check site dimensions against drawing. Check you have enough adhesive to complete the job and that it is the correct colour to match the tops, jointing bolt sets and any additional edging strips required. Determine that all cut-outs have been machined to the correct dimensions and located correctly. If cut-outs are left for on site machining, check that cooker hobs, sinks and anything else that determines size of cut-out is on site.
Note: We recommend that before joints are bonded with the seaming adhesive they are dry fitted to make sure that they are tight and accurate.
Note: Should you have any queries on the products installation that you feel are not clear or covered in this document then call our installation help line on 0191 2701777.

Tooling and Equipment

There are no specialised tools involved in the installation of Minerelle™. The only tooling needed that is different from standard laminate worktop fitting is the need for a random orbital sander.

Router and cutters
Sander and sand paper (see seaming and finishing section) - with extraction
Worktop jig (should a mitred joint be specified)
Jig saw
Hand drill
Dust masks
Safety glasses
'G' or 'A' or slip cramps
Imanol (denatured alcohol) and clean white rags
Masking tape
Silicone sealant
Dust sheets
Jointing bolts (3 per 650 mm joint)
Jointing biscuits
Heat reflective tape (hob cut outs)
Seaming adhesive and applicator gun

Routers

A router is the most suitable tool for machining Minerelle™. When choosing a router always make sure the machine is sturdy and powerful enough to do the job. For butt and scribe jointing and edge dressing a minimum rating of 1200 watts is recommended, for sink and hob cut-outs a higher rating of 1600-2100 watts would be required. Minimum rotational speed of cutter 18,000 rpm.
Router cutters should be of high quality tungsten carbide, double fluted, with a 12mm shank to reduce chatter.
6mm grooving saws should be a minimum of 4-wing with a strong arbour support having a 12mm shank (recommend Titman HD650 or adjustable type ADG5-9 with Arbor HDGA).
Note: When machining on a residential site it is advisable to fit an extraction unit onto the router to reduce dust and shavings.

Sanders

Random orbital sanders can be either electric or air-driven but must have minimum orbital speed of 10,000 rpm with a 3/32" orbit, preferably with a 150mm diameter pad.
Recommended grit sizes are: -
180 grit for removing adhesive bead and deep marks
240 & 320 grit for finishing
And Scotchbrite® 7448 (grey) for surface finishing
with Finesse-It® finishing compound
For site finishing it may be necessary to finish the total surface so a finishing compound can be used. This can be obtained from Mitchells.

Saws

The most practical type of saw to use in customising Minerelle™ is a sliding table saw, as the product has only to be crosscut to a new length. A fine chip free cut is required to minimise edge dressing. To achieve this a triple chip-tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) saw blade is recommended. (e.g. 230mm/300mm diameter with 60/72 teeth).
When using table saws always place Minerelle™ face-up on the table, with approximately 25mm of saw blade above the panel surface, cut slowly through the panel.
A hand held circular saw, guided along a straight edge clamped to Minerelle™, can be used for workshop or on-site sizing. These saws only produce a rough sizing cut, the edge and final finished sizing should be made by using a HD router.

Jig Saws

The jig saw can be used for the customising of Minerelle™ worktops in the same way as standard laminate tops i.e. for the cutting of sink and hob cut outs as well as other cutting operations.

To reduce the amount of marking on the surface from the saw/router plate, cover the area that is to be cut with masking tape.

Due to the unique composite nature of Minerelle™ cutter blade life expectancy will be reduced.

Note: It is very important to make sure that a sharp blade is used to reduce the risk of chipping and fracturing the surface.

Health And Safety

There are no known hazards associated with Minerelle™ solid composite surfacing. Normal, good workshop operating practices should be followed as with any other panel product. When machining Minerelle™ components, methyl-methacrylate vapour is released, but will dissipate with adequate ventilation.

When sanding Minerelle™ always use a dust mask as the material is classified as a nuisance dust. A spray bottle used to apply a water mist onto the surface prior to sanding will reduce the amount of dust generated.

Good extraction on the sander and router will remove dust and shavings.

Consideration should be given to the weight of the product when off loading and installation.

Material Safety Data Sheets are available for both the worktops and adhesive, these can be obtained from Mitchells.

Jointing

Preparing Joint Areas

If using the glue and block method, remove the cramping blocks by giving them a sharp side blow with a rubber mallet, do not prise off using a chisel. Remove any hot melt adhesive that may be left.

Carefully remove the ridge of adhesive with a Random Orbital Sander using a 180 grit abrasive disc, taking care not to sand a depression in the surface. Graduate up from 180 grit up to 320grit, and blend the sanded area into the existing factory finish of 320grit. It is possible to apply a water mist to the surface to assist sanding and to reduce dust.

It is recommended that extraction is used when fitting in residential kitchens.

Butt & Scribe Joints

When all the Minerelle™ components are customised to their final length, lay out the worktops to check the finished dimensions against the drawing/plan, with all internal corners and open-ends in site. (If the quality of saw cut is not adequate to produce a chip-free edge, cut oversize by approximately 3mm/edge and dress to final length using a router and straight edge, or alternatively use the butt and scribe jig)

If a butt and scribe joint is specified, then your standard worktop butt and scribe jig with the appropriate guide ring and router cutter will be adequate. Dog-bone recesses must be routered to a depth of 25mm to allow even pull on the surfaces, also cut three evenly spaced dados using a biscuit jointer and #20 biscuits for surface alignment and strength.

Note: Do not use cellulose thinners for cleaning.

Note: The tighter the dry fit the better chance you have of getting a better looking seamed joint.

Note: If using a new router cutter please ensure you wipe off the oil film, this can leave a residue and can contaminate the joint.

When using worktop-jointing bolts: if the dog-bone recesses have not already been prepared, you should do that at this stage (with the butt and scribe jig and router cutter), to a recess depth of 25mm.

Prepare the joint faces by cleaning the edges and surrounding areas with a clean white cloth dampened with Imanol to remove grease, dust and pencil marks etc.

Do not use a coloured cloth as this can cause colour contamination.

DO NOT TOUCH THE EDGES WHEN CLEANED

Note: On light colours if the edge and the surface have been marked with a pencil and not cleaned then the adhesive can draw in the pencil mark into the joint and leave a dark shadow.

HAVING APPLIED THE ADHESIVE, YOU HAVE 5-8 MINUTES TO BRING THE JOINT TOGETHER AND MAKE FINAL ADJUSTMENTS.

CRAMPING SEQUENCE

Dry fit to make sure that the joint looks tight. Any gaps that are seen on the dry fit could be seen after seaming.
Apply Minerelle™ seaming adhesive in biscuit dados and insert biscuits
Apply three even beads of seaming adhesive along the full length of the joint. It is important that there is good coverage at the bottom and top of the edges.
Assemble joint and draw joint together using the draw-bolts or sash clamps.
Draw the joint together, aligning the front profiles, but do not over tighten. An adhesive bead is required along the entire joint line, as the adhesive hardens the bead will shrink slightly.
Check that the work surfaces are level and flat either side of the joint before leaving the adhesive to cure. You can check the alignment of the tops by using a metal strip to wipe away a small section at the front and back of the joint, once aligned place back the adhesive on the joint. Do not remove the adhesive from the area after checking.
Any excess adhesive can be removed from the 90º joint on the front internal corner by chamfering a 90º piece of wood or plastic tool so that a small bead is left for curing. This will help when it comes to sanding off, as this area can be difficult to sand and polish.

Note: It is important that the bottom edge of the worktop has a full bead to ensure moisture resistance.

Leave the joint 30 - 35 minutes to dry. Do not sand or disturb the joint until the adhesive is hard or when it is not possible to scratch the glue bead with a fingernail.

In the jointing process you may get some of the seaming adhesive onto the surface, this will not damage the surface but once dry the only way to remove the adhesive will be by sanding. To prevent this, wipe off any spills with Imanol.

To help to reduce the odour of the adhesive whilst curing keep kitchen unit doors open which are underneath the jointed area.

Preparing the 50ml Cartridge System.

See attached list of adhesive colours, which match the Minerelle™ designs.
Each cartridge will seam/joint two 650mm joints.
The adhesive is a two-part system with the pigmented adhesive in one compartment and the hardener in the other.
Do not allow skin contact with the hardener - wash off immediately.
The cartridge is reusable providing the applicator is clean and the cap is replaced - shelf life is 12 months from fill dated stated in a dry environment.

Note: Extra nozzles are available from your distributor.

Note: Do not cut off the end of the nozzle as this will change the mix ratio and could effect the quality of the bond.

Note: Before applying the adhesive you will need to squeeze out half a nozzle of adhesive to ensure a good mix in the nozzle of adhesive and hardener.

Edge Preparation And Bonding.

When cross cutting worktop blanks to length, allow for the end capping process. When the edge is routered, tape the edge strip in position and check the final dimension across the ends. Standard edges are 6mm in thickness and 43mm wide and 1350mm long.

Note: Check that the edge is the same colour as the top.

Ensure the newly machined edge is free of dust and make sure to clean the back of the edge strip with Imanol.

Apply three beads of adhesive to the back of the edge strip, ensure total coverage. Apply edge strip and press into position, adhesive should squeeze out around the complete joint area top and bottom. Cramp in position using tape and blocks or 3-way G-cramps or the 'A' cramps and allow adhesive to completely cure i.e. when it is not possible to scratch the adhesive with your fingernail.

Note: It is important that the bottom edge of the worktop has a full bead to ensure moisture resistance this is especially important when re-edging for a Belfast sink.

Having established that the adhesive has cured, flush trim all protruding sections with H D Router and appropriate trimming cutter. Make sure when doing this, that the worktop is fully supported and cramped to bench or trestles.

Profile the edge with the 3mm radius router cutter taking care not to mark the surface.

Sand the edge profile.

It is recommended to sand at least 50mm of the underside of the worktop to provide a clean smooth finish.

Forming Edges

Minerelle™ edges can be formed around special shapes. To form the edge it is important that the edge is kept at room temperature (20 ° C). Before applying the adhesive, clamp the edge in place to ascertain that the shape is achievable.

For tighter radiuses it may be necessary to heat the edge in a heating tray to a radiant temperature of 100 ° C for 20 minutes. No tighter than a 200mm radius.

Upstands and Splashback

Upstands and splash backs can be fixed using a good quality silicone or PUR adhesive system. Make sure walls are dry from moisture and the splash backs or upstand are clean from dust and grease. Splash backs and upstands should be polished prior to fixing. Edges that are exposed should be sanded to the relevant finish.

Note: Do not use 6mm sheet at the back of hobs - for this we recommend 12mm with a good quality adhesive such as PUR.

Finishing

Throughout the text of this manual, it has been our intention to provide you with information that will assist you in fabricating and fitting Minerelle™ worktops. The following recommendations show you a simple and clear set of techniques to finish the work surface to your desired finish.

Tooling and equipment required:

Safety glasses
Dust mask
Random Orbital Sander (with extraction unit)
Abrasive Discs -180, 240 & 320 grit
Non-woven Abrasive Pad - 'Grey'
Finishing compound - Finesse-It 3M
Countertop Magic - Cleaning material

Final Finishes

Matt finish may be achieved by sanding the entire surface with a 180 grit abrasive disc, followed by 240 then 320. Sanding is followed by buffing with a grey abrasive pad under the random orbital sander and finishing compound. Our standard factory finish is 320 but using a flat bed sander.

Note 1: Each sanding operation should last 45 to 90 seconds per square foot, depending on surface conditions and colour.

Note 2: The higher the gloss level and the darker the colour the more visible scratches become, and greater effort is required by your customer to maintain this finish.

Note 3: To prevent sanding the total surface it is possible to finish the area of the joint with a 320-grit finish and then apply the finishing compound to the full surface with a damp cloth. After applying the compound use the sander and a Scotch Brite Ô pad, polish the full area, which will provide an even finish to the full surface.

The surface can be cleaned using our recommended cleaner, Countertop Magic. This is applied to the entire work surface, left for a few minutes and then wiped clean using a clean dry cotton cloth.

Cut-Outs

Tools required:

Safety glasses
Dust mask
Jig saw (sharp blades) or Heavy Duty Plunge Router
Drill and drill bit
12mm diameter X 50mm TCT Router Cutter
3mm radius Profiling cutter + bearing (Titman ROCB 3)
Straight Edge Guide for HD Router
Silicone sealant
Heat reflective tape

General

When designing the worktop layout, never allow a butt joint seam to extend into a cut out. The butt joint seam must be offset from all cut outs, dishwashers or other heat generating appliances by a minimum of 100mm.

When machining cut-outs in the workshop, it is advisable to only partially machine out the centrepiece, as its total removal could subject the product to possible damage when transporting to site.

The ideal method is to cut through the surface material into the core, to a depth of 35mm, around the cut-out. Then take the router cutter through the final 5mm, at each corner and for about 100mm each side. The remaining 5mm of core material can be simply jig sawn on site using a pencil mark drawn between the corners as a guide.

As an additional precaution, radius the top edge of the cut-out using the 3mm radius cutter used for End-Capping. Seal the edges with a good quality waterproof silicone sealant. PVA is not recommended as a long life seal.

Hob Cut-Outs

When marking out the hob cut-out, allow approximately ¼" (5mm) clearance on all sides of the Hob box. If cutting on site, ensure proper clearance by measuring flange around Hob top.

Having cut and prepared the cut-out as above, apply aluminium heat reflective tape around the entire rim of the cut-out. Ensure the tape stays in place when clamping the hob into position. Position the tape so that there is an even rim on the top and bottom edge of the worktop. Do not mechanically fasten a cooker hob into the surface material.

This will prevent excessive heat build up and the potential risk of stress cracking.

Heat studs

Heat studs are available from your distributor, they can simply be inserted into the surface by drilling a 6mm hole no deeper than 20mm and filling with clear silicone. Insert the stud and wipe away the excess silicon.

Sink Cut-Outs

When clamping a sink to the worktop, always use copious amounts of silicone sealant to seal the sink rim to the work surface, and seal any exposed chipboard edges.

Under no circumstances must internal corner cut-outs be finished with square corners. Always machine a radius to these corners and make the radius as large as practical (8mm min).

Product Repair

It is possible with Minerelle™ to repair joints, chips or edges by using the Minerelle™ repair kit. The repair kit is a two part product. The repair compound is premixed with the particles and resin and needs to be mixed with the catalyst provided.

Steps in repairing:

Remove the area in question by machining out no deeper than the surface i.e. 2mm. If you are repairing a vertical section then this can be achieved by building up a dam with masking tape.
Clean the area with Imanol, denatured alcohol.
Thoroughly mix the contents of the repair compound in its original container so that all the particles that sit on the bottom of the container are mixed with the resin.
Fill ¼ a paper cup with the repair compound and add 7 drops of the catalyst into the cup and then mix thoroughly. Do not exceed catalyst as this can cause colour variation.
Please be careful with the catalyst on open skin, it is advised to use protective gloves provided. If you do get contact with the catalyst on the skin then wash off immediately.
Once the repair is hard (normal cure time is 4 to 6 hours) you then sand off to the desired finish see finishing section in the fabrication manual.

Note: The colder the environment the longer the cure time. Ideally leave overnight.

Contents of Repair Kit

1 tub of repair compound (250ml)
1 bottle of catalyst
1 bottle of 200ml Imanol (cleaning solution)
A pair of Latex gloves
2 paper cups
2 mixing sticks

The shelf life of a repair kit is 3 months from fill date.

Installation Guide forMinerelle Kitchen Worktop